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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred establishments. However, nestled prominently among these food giants is a simple salonu located in a far-flung area of north London.

A Unexpected Honour

The little Turkish spot, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential food magazine. The accolade has left the family totally surprised.

“I’m completely shocked,” states a proprietor, referring to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their small shop securing such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

The small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular food hotspot, has kept much of its original feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the cuisine, and this eatery certainly excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a tender texture.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in slowly. When the savoury mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, toastier and less sickly flavour.

Rising Above the Titans

Notably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for below £25, equivalent meals at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

A Philosophy of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to reveal what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at fancy establishments. “I feel very proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is set to resonate beyond its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this culinary achievement.